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Water-based Creams

Formul­ations in this column contain water.

Facial Lotion

Ratio Ingr­edi­ent
80% Water
4% Humectant
10% Liquid Oil
0 Solid Oil (butter)
0 Wax
2% Thickener
4% Emulsifier

Hand Cream

Ratio Ingr­edi­ent
70% Water
2% Humectant
15% Liquid Oil
5% Solid Oil (butter)
0 Wax
2% Thickener
6% Emulsifier

Body Butter

Ratio Ingr­edi­ent
60% Water
3% Humectant
12% Liquid Oil
15% Solid Oil (butter)
0 Wax
3% Thickener
7% Emulsifier

Barrier Cream

Ratio Ingr­edi­ent
60% Water
3% Humectant
15% Liquid Oil
5% Solid Oil (butter)
5% Wax
3% Thickener
7% Emulsifier
 

Anhydrous Products

Formul­ations without water ( an­hydrous ).

Balm

Ratio Ingr­edi­ent
0 Water
0 Humectant
80% Liquid Oil
0 Solid Oil (butter)
20% Wax
0 Thickener
0 Emulsifier

Whipped Butter

Ratio Ingr­edi­ent
0 Water
0 Humectant
20% Liquid Oil
80% Solid Oil (butter)
0 Wax
0 Thickener
0 Emulsifier

Use a hand beater for a "­flu­ffy­" texture.

Solid "Lotion" Bar

Ratio Ingr­edi­ent
0 Water
0 Humectant
40% Liquid Oil
35% Solid Oil (butter)
25% Wax
0 Thickener
0 Emulsifier

Use a paper-­lined muffin tray as a mold.

Ingredient Notes

Humectants draw in water. e.g. glycerine, honey, lanolin.
You can mix within an ingredient category. e.g. 12% oil = 6% olive oil + 6% rice bran oil.
To change the consis­tency, alter the ratio of hard & liquid oils. e.g. body butter vs. barrier cream.
Wax = local beeswax.
Emulsifier = Emulsi­fying Wax NF.
Preser­vatives are highly recomm­ended.
 

Your Recipe

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After adding each ingred­ient, add a tick mark beside its name and note how much you actually used. 1oz = 28g (ish).

Instructions

Weigh water and humectant in a heat-proof container.
Weight oil, butter, wax, emulsi­fier, thickener in a heat-proof container.
Set both containers into bath of hot water.
Heat to 70C. Hold at temp for 20 minutes.
Pour water into oil. Ensure container mouth is big enough for stick blender.
Blend with a hand blender or beater for at least 3 minutes.
Let cool to 40C.
Add essential oils and preser­vative.
Blend additional 3 minutes.
Pour completed lotion­/salve into contai­ners.

Helpful Hints

Print out this cheat sheet and circle the type of product you are making.
To make 200g of a product, multiply the % ratio by 2 for each ingred­ient. e.g. 10% x 2 = 20g.
Lotions will be approx­imately 1.25 larger than the weight in grams. For example: 100g will be about 125mL.
 

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Comments

DaveChild DaveChild, 08:19 30 Jan 12

What a great idea! When I saw "ingredients" I thought this would be cookery ... I still think it might be :)

SpaceDuck SpaceDuck, 16:48 30 Jan 12

Amazing, I've always wanted to try this type of thing but have never managed to find such concise instructions before. Thanks

emmajane emmajane, 18:27 30 Jan 12

Warning: making lotion is about as addictive as making cheat sheets. ;)

PugMom77 PugMom77, 08:20 2 Feb 13

Thank you for the great guide! What do you mean by "thickener"?

Megs Megs, 10:21 20 May 13

AWESOME information! This is absolutely great for me and my lotion making addiction!

Tami Hayes Tami Hayes, 15:01 13 Feb 14

Thanks for the great reference material!

Jo Jo, 11:27 3 Apr 14

What do you consider a thickener to be? Stearic acid?

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